MKS Jewellery by Sheikha Mariam Al Nahyan
HRH Sheikha Mariam bint Khalifa bin Saif Al Nahyan is the inspirational designer and driving force behind the MKS label which is recognized for embodying the heritage and spirit of the UAE through its contemporary, symbolic and exquisite pieces.
MKS launched its first debut jewellery collection in January 2013, and has since expanded to include house fine fragrances and leather accessories for which HRH Sheikha Mariam was awarded the Arab Woman ’Young Designer of the Year’ award in 2015.
HRH Sheikha Mariam stands as an ambassador for the Emirati women and her homeland, her deeply entrenched values and heritage is expressed or the incorporation of raw materials exclusively found in her surroundings. MKS takes pride in marrying the humanistic artisanal influence and locally sourced fine materials to multigenerational everyday creations.
MKS launched its first debut jewellery collection in January 2013, and has since expanded to include house fine fragrances and leather accessories for which HRH Sheikha Mariam was awarded the Arab Woman ’Young Designer of the Year’ award in 2015.
HRH Sheikha Mariam stands as an ambassador for the Emirati women and her homeland, her deeply entrenched values and heritage is expressed or the incorporation of raw materials exclusively found in her surroundings. MKS takes pride in marrying the humanistic artisanal influence and locally sourced fine materials to multigenerational everyday creations.
• Has your position as the granddaughter of the UAE president presented as a challenge to become a jewellery designer? What did it take for you to start this profession?
I think that anyone who is a granddaughter, daughter, sister or mother and also a business woman, faces challenges in their own way. I have a set of limitations when it comes to being a business owner and an entrepreneur, be it in team management, the creation of the designs and making sure the business stays afloat. In terms of being my grandfather’s daughter, I am blessed to have been guided by his principles and taught by my family that success comes from your own merit. I feel like there is a general expectation to which I am constantly having to give a reality check, further to that people can take things for granted. In fact, no one knew I was creating a label until it officially launched and for the longest periods of time, I was selling the pieces myself. I would chat with clients and suggest pieces for their loved ones, take orders and even gift-wrap them myself. I have always wanted to leave things behind and I even wrote a book, which ironically enough, I am still working to publish but a piece of jewellery is always passed on, so each creation ends up carrying a part of my story too.
I think that anyone who is a granddaughter, daughter, sister or mother and also a business woman, faces challenges in their own way. I have a set of limitations when it comes to being a business owner and an entrepreneur, be it in team management, the creation of the designs and making sure the business stays afloat. In terms of being my grandfather’s daughter, I am blessed to have been guided by his principles and taught by my family that success comes from your own merit. I feel like there is a general expectation to which I am constantly having to give a reality check, further to that people can take things for granted. In fact, no one knew I was creating a label until it officially launched and for the longest periods of time, I was selling the pieces myself. I would chat with clients and suggest pieces for their loved ones, take orders and even gift-wrap them myself. I have always wanted to leave things behind and I even wrote a book, which ironically enough, I am still working to publish but a piece of jewellery is always passed on, so each creation ends up carrying a part of my story too.
• How and when did you start designing jewellery?
It all started from the gifting of a jewel which then evolved a series of jewellery cases. These were made with exquisite camel skin that is locally sourced and tanned, then shipped to Italy where it is perfectly finished. This range has evolved into trinket trays and leather stickers too. It’s about complementing the jewellery collections that are so close to my heart and being able to have a safe place for them to live. More recently, I wanted to continue the expressions and strengthen the brand message and fragrances felt like the most luxurious way to communicate this. We embarked on a journey where we were able to find a nose in Paris who did a spectacular job at elegantly interpreting each sentiment into a series of three fragrances. It was such a special experience to be able to tell the stories my grandmother taught me to do so well. The first is called ‘Oud Moderns’ and is inspired by my grandmother’s secret blend of ‘Bukhoor’. The second is inspired by another one of my muses, my niece and the third, by the language of flowers; paying tribute to symbolism and gifting sentiments.
• How is your personal style highlighted in the jewellery pieces you create?
I think I have a very ‘different’ style when it comes to jewellery. I wear a piece as a marker or a reminder. If you look at what I am wearing you would be able to understand the stories I am trying to tell. I’m not afraid to mix, match or layer, and to experiment with high jewellery and little trinkets too. I like nostalgia and the feeling of revisiting a piece. I might wear a piece for two years and never take it off and sometimes I open my jewellery box and see something I haven’t worn for a long while so I’ll put it on, especially if it relates to someone or something close to me as the value remains within.
To me, style is not defined by a forecast or a stylist but is defined by how well you represent yourself and say what you want to say. This is why there is so much diversity in my collections. I have actually been told that the range is so diverse it actually looks like several different designers and I absolutely love this!
• What is your main source of inspiration?
Conversation inspires me, which is why tea time is so monumental to me. Sometimes it’s in the exchange of ideas, other times a conversation plants a thought and the thought grows into a beautiful garden of inspirations. Everything inspires me, I always say ‘inspiration comes when it comes’, especially when you are not designing for a season or a trend. This is why jewellery design is my favourite, fine jewellery transcends the seasonal, so designing is a process that is never ending, and it involves a lot of research and development. The Emirati heritage is also a major source of inspiration and I love that my perspective is first hand yet very young and contemporary, so it always comes to life with a twist of modern. I hope never to forget to be inspired by my childhood and heritage no matter how global MKS goes.
• Do you still recall the first piece of jewellery you designed?
The first designs were actually a set of four necklaces that still exist today and remain great sellers! I sketched out a heart, a horse, an infinity sign and a wishbone. There is nothing better than a symbolic piece of jewellery when it is hard to express yourself in a letter. This was the best way to convey a message.
• Where is MKS jewellery manufactured?
We like things to connect back to the UAE so most of it is done in Dubai and some regionally. As for the accessories and fragrances, they are produced globally. It has been a conscious and strategic decision to keep as much as we can local, be it the products or the raw materials.
• How do you work on the designs?
It starts from a core expression such as a message I want to convey, followed by a style that best represents this message. Gemstones also play a large role in the design starting point and development. When I have the freedom to pick the stone, as in when I am not limited to the stone because of its price or technical limitations, I would pick based on what the stone can bring to its wearer. Being a designer and a business woman, I understand and put high priority on making sure the design is a sellable one.
• Do you follow the latest fashion trends when you are designing?
I take inspiration from what is coming but I don’t lose my own style within it. I can be inspired by a trend if it does justice to the brand, but some things are not for everyone. On the runway things can be bold and over the top but it is rare to see that in real life. If I was to define MKS as a style, it would be bold, fun, quirky and meaningful with a touch of Arabic and a lot of modern twists.
• Do you have any plans to open your own boutique?
At present, Bloomingdale’s acts as our own boutique in many ways as it carries a major range of MKS and we are really enjoying the relationship that we have built with their team and the store. As for our own boutique, we will soon be launching the website which will be an e-commerce website which is super exciting and brings with it a whole new dimension to the business!
• What are the price ranges?
I’m a firm believer in offering something for everyone so the pieces start from as low as 800 AED. We have worked so hard to ensure that we have an extremely well-structured collection, be it in the price, the offering and the completeness of the range. At MKS we ensure compromises do not occur at entry price, all gold remains solid 18 carat and quality remains a priority and the manufacturers we work with hold the same ethos.